<,*---s. :>'% /'** ■•-tei*;-- /% • **'% 






.^'V ^^'•^. ./V "' .' .cc^'-^ 






V 












,f 




.^^ 

"<'. 


• 



..^V ^ i y-^, .^% /% ' .^\ 



\ 



O-" '*'* '..o' .«""■ ^3. '•.,,■ .0 






« • o 






y 









■^■^^o'' * ■^•^o'' ^ot^' 



^ 






O V 









^>'- 






•^.- .^ 



0- - -.V /" 


















t- 






^"•n^. 



.0 ^ "1" "to 



^ 
■""* 



,* •< 



^« 



'<.••'«'' %'•••'»<' ''*"■•■■»'' %■ ■•■'<^<^ , '<.'••■«'. %- 

aV- , , • . , • . ^, ^ - „ „ 5 aT O ♦ - . , • .0 'Ock - - _ o A~ O. - . . , - .C 



0, ^. 




wm^ PRlsq 



m"^^ 



\%\-^.H 



Smoc? 



[Hi 

m 

\iUUVU 



lU 



,'»- 



M 



•li 






mmjvuui 



iifflU 



iim!!^! 



\\\ 



l^d 









V •vw -^ 



If/I 



ttiyi 



KlUflHSlTSSai 



ThePnscillaPublishing] 

Bo st on. ]M ass. ^ 



.'.'V-^.-. .rWV*>* 




■- ^ »r^. - << 






''V / V r 



BOOCK>C<?K 



V/^-^ 



>^ >s.^' V ^ V • V. / 



V/V^V 



Now Ready 

Bound Volumes of the 

Priscilla Fancy Work 

Instruction Books 




Hundreds of thousands of Needleworkers have purchased the paper-covered 
Priscilla Instruction Books, and have been thoroughly delighted with their clear, 
simple instructions for various kinds of Fancy Work. 

However, there has long been a demand for these books in a more substantial 
form so that they could be added to home libraries and withstand the hard 
usage given books of reference. 

In response to this demand, we now offer you the entire set of Priscilla 
Instruction Books, handsomely and durably bound in red Law Buckram, with 
titles stamped in gold. 

Price, $1.35 per Volume, Postpaid 

Each volume contains four Instruction Books as follows : 



VOLUME I 
Irish Crochet No. 1 
Irish Crochet No. 2 
Filet Crochet 
Edgings and Insertion* 

VOLUME III VOLUME r<l 

Bead Work Punched Work Embroidery 



VOLUME II 
Tatting 
Hardanger 
Wool Knitting 
Wool Crochet 

VOLUME V 
Filet Crochet No. 



Basketry^ French and Eyelet Embroidery 

Macrame Colored Cross Stitch No. 1 

Bobbin Lace Colored Cross Stitch No. 2 



Crochet Bedspreads 

Netting 

Drawn Work 



Every book in the Priscilla Library is a genuine teacher. All the different 
stitches are fully described and explained, then in addition there are a multitude of 
illustrations showing stitches, details, motifs and finished pieces, all of which makes 
the work just as clear and simple for the beginner as for the expert needleworker. 
Send your order for the volumes you wish at once as the first edition is limited. 

Priscilla Publishing Co., 85 Broad St., Boston, Mass. 



^risfciUa Smocking Jlook 



A COLLECTION OF BEAUTIFUL 
AND USEFUL PATTERNS 



WITH 



directions for Working 



BY 

LOUISE FLYNN 



PRICE, 25 CENTS 



PUBLISHED BY 

^\)t ^risiciUa $ut)lt£if)ing Companp 

85 BROAD STREET, BOSTON. MASS. 



Copyright, 1916, by The Priscilla Publishing Company 

Trade Mark Reg. U. S. Patent Office 

All rights reserved 

Copyright in Great Britain and the Colonics 



.F6 




A CiiAKMiNt; Tarty Dress for a Litti.f. Girl. Which Siuiu-a thl 

SiMPLKST Form. Ske I'ly, ^i " 

2 _ * " •,-' 

©CIA4311MJ1 



r S.MCiCKI.M. IN lis 



JUL 24 1916 

» * 



THE ART OF SMOCKING 



SMOCKING is not new, but is a form of needle- 
work which is always in demand because of its 
simplicity and beauty, and the opportunity it affords 
for originality of design. It is, in a few words, the 
embroidery of simple stitches upon the folds or plaits 
of a shirred foundation, and may be used on any gar- 
ment where fullness is desirable. It is charming lor 
children's dresses, coats, bonnets, and muffs, as well 
as women's waists, dresses, smocks, and other articles 
of wearing apparel. The garments and simple de- 
signs shown in this book should arouse an added in- 
terest in this original, almost freehand work, in 
which designs may be created as the work progresses. 

Materials. — The materials which may be used an- 

most varied, including linens, crepes, all silks not too 
thin, striped and checked dimities, lawns, ginghams, and 
similar goods, as well as velvet, chiffon, lace, albatross, 
cashmere, and other woolen fabrics of like character. 
On silk or woolen materials, silk threads should al- 
ways be used for smocking, and on cotton fabrics, 
embroidery cotton either fine or coarse, depending 
upon whether a fine or coarse effect is desired. Two 
threads of stranded cot- 
ton are perhaps the best 
for work upon children's 
frocks and ladies' blouses 
when delicate shading and 
elaborate stitchery are to 
be accomplished. For 
more simple work in one 
color on gingham or crepe, 
a heavier embroidery cot- 
ton may be used. 

Preparation of Mate- 
rial. — .\s h:is already 
been stated, smocking is 
embroidery upon the folds 
or plaits of a shirred 
foundation material, and 
it is absolutely essential 
that this foundation be 
carefully prepared. In 
fact the most important thing in regard to smocking 
is the evenness of the gathering. This cannot be too 
strongly impressed, as the whole beauty of the work 
depends upon it. \'arious methods have been em- 




I. ( 



ATIIKRINr, TllRKAnS IN PROCESS ON .\ CHECKED 

Material. See page 3 





I'lG. 3. A !•■ 



.\E Checkeli .Matkrial May .Also Hi: 
Used. See page 4 



ployed at different times by different workers in ar- 
ranging a guide for the placement of these gathering 
threads, the object being to space the threads at even 
distances apart and to place the gathering stitches in 
each row directly under 
those in the one preced- 
ing, taking up the same 
amount of material in 
each stitch. 

Checked and Striped 
Materials. — Perliaps the 
simplest way of arriving 
at this result and one ideal 
for the beginner in smock- 
ing is the use of checked 
and striped materials, as 
in bigs. I. J. and 3 on this 
page. 

Figure l shows per- 
fectly the method for pre- 
paring a piece of checked 
dimity for smocking 
stitches. In this case the 
first and third lines are taken up for shirring, and two 
checks are omitted. This distance between stitches 
would make coarse work, about four or four and one- 
half times for fullness when finished, depending on the 
size of your check. 

Figure 2 shows the use of a material with a stripe, 
like striped dimity, that can be used for length of 
stitch. Here we first show lines stitched by using the 
sewing-machine, the width between the lines being 
regulated by the presser foot. This little device of 
stitching the lines is of the greatest value in using 
striped materials, especially the striped dimity, where 
the cords space the stitches. The stitching serves 
only as a guide for the gathering threads, and is 
clipped bit by bit and removed as the gathering 
threads are run in. If the cords are too far apart, one 
stitch between can be used; if the cords are too close 
together, one can be omitted. Thus it is readily seen 



In.. _>. (.iATHEKiVi. THKKAli> i ^ I K. ». KSS ON A .StkII'KII 

Material with Lines Marked by Machine 
Stitch I N<;. See page 3 




either fine work 
or the reverse is 
easily attainable 
and can be cor- 
rectly prepared. 

Figure 3. — 
Here again is 
shown a 
cbecl<ed mate- 
rial tine enough 
for every other 
check to be 
omitted in the 
shirring, as 
shown, and the 
same distance 
left between the 
rows of shir- 
ring, making a 
square. After 
tliese samples 
have been 
shirred, t h e 
threads drawn 
up moderately 
snug and securely tied in pairs, the pieces are ready 
for the smocking stitches. 

Each line of gathering must have a separate thread, 
and each thread should be started at the right-hand 
side with a double stitch to hold the knot so that it 
will not slip through when the thread is drawn up. 
In this illustration a coarse cotton has been used for 
gathering in order to show clearly, but a stout sew- 
ing cotton is all that is necessary. 

Figure 4. — -This illustration shows Fig. I with the 
gathering threads drawn up. It is the wrong side of 
the work. The right side, upon which the smocking 
stitches are worked, presents a succession of folds. 
(See Fig. g.) 

The Sewing-Machine Method. — .'\s before stated, 
it is of the greatest importance in smocking that the 
work is perfectly prepared, as the entire beauty of 
the work would be marred by imperfect lines in the 
shirring. To attain this perfection on plain material 
the sewinii-macbiiie may be used for marking lines 



4. Checked Materi.\l as in Fig. 
I, WITH Gatherlnc Threads. 
See page 4 




and spaces. The lines are to work upon and the 
spaces are the size of the stitch, the presser foot be- 
ing the guide between the lines. (See Fig. 5.) When 
the rows of stitching are complete, the threads are 
clipped about every two inches and removed a few 
at a time in a manner not to obliterate the impres- 
sion made by the machine-needle. These marks or 
holes are used to determine the length of the shir- 
ring stitch, as you shir in the holes the machine- 
needle has made. If very fine work is desired, adjust 
the machine to eight stitches to the inch. This gives 
you a fullness of three times and is suitalile for tine 
material. For heavier material adjust the machine to 
six stitches to the inch. This gives about four times 
the fullness. Smocking should rarely be fuller than 
this and is seldom used with less fullness than twice 
and one-half, which is very fine work. In using the 
stitched lines, the presser foot gives you the width, 
the size of the stitch gives you the length of your 
stitch for smocking. 

Table for Fullness. — 4 times the material for 
fullness — six machine stitches to the inch. 



iMWpp^ M^ i wi ^■^^■^Si— ■— ^w^^^Ni^J^ i^a ^ 



Fig. 5. Lines and Spaces Marked by Sewing 

Machine. First Shirring Thread Being 

Rln. See page 4 

3 times the fullness — eight machine stitches to the 
inch. 

2'A times the fullness — ten machine stitches to the 
inch. 

Figure 5 shows the lines of machine-stitching 
with first shirring thread in process. A study of the 
principle involved discloses the various possibilities 
the method opens up for the work. With the excep- 
tion of some honeycomb designs and the foregoing 
elemental studies in checks, all of the work shown 



Fig. 0. .M.\rLkiAL Makkki. u iiH TKA.VMtk Dui;. Sec 1"ig. 7. Method of Marking BV Rvi-f.d Letter Paper. 
page 5 See page 5 

4 



JUL 24 1916 



in this book was done using this simple method of 
the stitched lines. Indeed the writer has yet to use 
any other method than this. On your sewing- 
machine adjust the length of stitch according to the 
requirements of the work, either long f<ir coarse or 
short for line work. Let the prcsser foot guide the 
spaces, and you can mark up your material correctly 
and quickly. 

Using this method i^ the only possible way to smock 
on curves correctly. ( See Fig. 33 on pages 16 and 
17.) A perfect circle ten inches in diameter was used 
for the yoke shown. The entire piece of work was 
stitched row after row, using the prcsser foot of the 
machine to guide the distance between the lines. One 
can readily grasp the principle of evenness of smock- 
ing, and unless the machitie used is at fault, the work 
must be correct. Crease a line or mark with a thread 
just where the first stitch begins for each succeed- 
ing row of stitching. 



illll^ 


ML 


IHif 

[/Iff '[/id )j^^ 


tTTf 


1 




if 



Ik., y. CJu iLi.M, Stitch in Fkikess, ash So.me 
Variation.s. See page 5 

Figure 6. Shirring by Means of Dots. — This il- 
lustration shows an example of the dotted lines as 
used in the preparation of material for smocking. 
This dotting can be accomplished with the transfer 
patterns which are prepared for the purpose; or by 
the method described and illustrated in Fig. 7. It 
is useful for velvet, as the sewing-machine injures 
or marks the pile of the velvet. The method is good 
to use also for a fabric like chiffon, which does not 
stitch well unless a paper is placed below it, as one 
works on lace. Mark the dots on the wrong side 
of the material, and in shirring take up the dots the 
same way as the cords of the checked dimity. 
(See Fig. i and pattern of dots on page 32.) 

Figure 7. — Another method of marking material 
with (lots is accomplished with two sheets of ruled 
letter paper and impression paper. Place the mate- 
rial to be dotted over the impression paper and the 
lined paper above this, one sheet with the lines per- 
pendicular and one sheet with the lines horizontal. 
Now with a pencil, or other not too sharp point, 
dot out your dotted lines or points as you wish, mov- 



ifiimitniini imitutiiii tni! 

iftiHititttiiiHifinimiii 

IIIIIIIIIIIKKIIKIIII 



Fig. S. Outline Stitch. See page s 

ing the perpendicular lines down from the horizontal 
lines from line to line. For a small piece of work 
this is practical and is at every woman's command. 
Enough preiiaraliun for a child's dress can be done 
correctly in a lew minutes' time without the use of 
a sewing-machine or any outside assistance such as 
transfers. 

Smocking Stitches 

Figure 8. Outline Stitch. — This stitch is most 
simple. It is in tact the well-known embroidery 
stitch worked from left to right <m the plaits of the 
shirred material, the gathering thread acting as a 
guide to keep the work straight. It is used in start- 
ing most pieces of smocking. 

Start your thread on the second plait at the gather- 
ing thread on the wrong side of the material, bring- 
ing the needle up in the first plait on the right side 
of the material. Take one stitch from left to right 
in the top of each plait, keeping the thread below 
the needle, and each stitch directly over the gather- 
ing thread. Fasten off thread at end of each row. 
This illustration shows four rows of outline stitch 
worked on material dotted and shirred as in Fig. 6. 

Figure 9. Outline Stitch Variations. — Here we 
have plain material with rows of smocking worked 
in various examples of the outline stitch. The prepa- 
ration for the work was the stitched lines described 
in Fig. 5, the goods shirred, threads secured, and the 
material gently pulled into position as seen. Then 
on the first row of shirring Was worked one row of 
outline stitch across the line as shown. The second 
row was done in the same manner and third is in 
process, position of the needle showing exactly how 
the stitch is taken. The fourth row shows two rows 
of outline worked close together ; the first worked on 
the line as previously; the second row below the first 
and close to it. The fifth row shows four rows in out- 




l)oi m.i, ()UTLi-\t Srncn. Set page 



isiiiiiiiimii 



/u\/iMi\/\>\nii^in'i/i(»/i'i!iiifiii/ 



i 



Fig. II. SiNGLii Cable Stitlii. Sec page 6 

line and forms a band. Wlien u.sing shades of one 
color this simple border becomes quite elaborate and 
can be worked thus : The lirst row with the thread 
kept below the needle ; the second row witli the thread 
kept above the needle; the third row, as the first 
row, with the thread kept ])e!ow the needle ; the 
fourth row with the thread above the needle. 

Figure lo. Double Outline Stitch. — The braided 
effect shown by this sample is secured by working 
two rows of outline stitch closely together over each 
gathering thread ; in one row the thread being held 
above the needle, and in tlie other below tlie needle. 

Figure ii. Single Cable Stitch. — This stitch is 
worked from left to right and is very mucli like the 
outline stitch. You start your thread at the gatlier- 
ing thread on the wrong side of the material, secur- 
ing your knot in the second plait, and bringing the 
needle up in the first plait on the right side of the 
material as in outline stitch. Take one stitch in every 
plait, keeping the thread above the needle in the first 
stitch and beknv the needle in the next stitch, then 
above the needle again, and so on to the end of 
the line, keeping each stitch exactly on top of 
the gathering t h r e a d. 



three lines of double cable, if worked in colors, are 
sufficient decoration for a child's play dress of blue 
chambray or natural-color linen. On blue the colors 
could be Turkey-red first row ; a blue different from 
the dress, second row; and one shade of orange. On 
natural-color linen dark brown, orange, and black 
with a touch of green would be most effective. Thus, 
at an e.vpense of a few cents, an otherwise plain 
unattractive play frock is made a thing of beauty and 
a joy to the small wearer. 

Figure 13. Single and Double Wave Stitch. — 

The wave proper consists of four stitches worked 
gradually up and four stitches worked gradually 
down again in the outline stitch, and is worked from 




Figure 12. Double 
Cable Stitch. — T h i > 
stitch is in order at this 
time, but the beginner is 
advised to leave it until 
she has acquired some of 
the other stitches, as it 
may be somewhat con- 
fusing. The double cable 
stitch is simply two rows 
of single cable worked 
closely together, the first 
sliglitly above the gather- 
ing thread and the sec- 
ond slightly below. Work 
the first row as previously 
described (Fig. 11, Single 
Cable), and in the sec- 
ond row reverse the or- 
der of the thread above 
or below the needle. As 
the first row begins witli 
the thread above the 
needle, the second should 
begin with the thread be- 
low the needle. These 



^m;'i?i!!5ir^;iii 



Bh'nm^^' 



Fig. 12. DofBLE Cable Stitch. See page 6 

left to right. Start your thread on the second plait 
on the right side of material as in outline, and work 
to the line above, using one, two, three stitches, one in 
each plait with the thread below the needle going 
up. Now with the thread above the needle take one 
stitch on the line next to the third stitch up with 
the thread above the needle and work to the line be- 
low, using three stitches gradually. Then witli the 
thread below the needle 
take one stitch next to the 
last stitch on the line 
and work again to the line 
above, using three stitches 
and repeat. If your space 
permits you can use four 
stitches in place of three, 
and sometimes \'\ve or six 
stitches, using two lines. 
This depends on the pleas- 
ure of the worker and 
the result to be attained. 
Two or more rows of 
wave stitch may be 
worked one above the 
other as in the illustra- 
tion. 

Figure 14. — Double cable 
stitch repeated in many 
rows is extremely effective, 
especially when the work 
is done in shades of one 
color. Double C a 1) 1 e 
when used in this manner 
is most exacting, and no 
mistakes can possibly be 






Single a.vd Double Wave Stitch. 
page 6 

6 



bcc 



permitted, as one false stitch throws all into confu- 
sion. This pattern is particularly good for a boy's 
frock. The top and bottom rows may be black and 
those between in color. 

A Double Wave or Diamond Wave is worked in 
the same manner as the single wave, working the sec- 




Fic. 14. A Secom 



•'..NAMIM.K (IK Dmr.i.i- Caiii.i Stiti II. 

See page 6 



ond row of wave in the opposite direction from the 
first rows, forming a diamond pattern as shown at 
top and bottom of Fig. I.l. 

This pattern used on a girl's simple play or school 
frock would be charmingly distinctive if the mate- 
rial was in pink and white stripe, either lawn, dimity 
or madras, the stripes about one-eighth of an inch 
wide. ."Xftcr stitching the lines on your sewing- 
machine, gather for the work, taking up the white 
lines and putting the pink lines in the backgroitn<l. 
This gives a white space for smocking, which can be 
done to advantage, using four shades of pink cotton, 
size S. Stitch about twelve rows for this pattern. On 
the third row from the top line the double wave or 
diamond shown in the design is worked. This de- 
sign is good and more important-looking it four 
stitches are used up and four down for the diamond. 



ii» .4vtl>- M> i|» .|> .• 

I i^iilKIV i|» >|» '|i 



I i|> ><v *•• »1» »!• 

j|» i|> ill''!' 'T >•» r 

illlilllUlllllllltllllif 



/HMIKUIfMliaill 






ilLflMcEllUIMlKfinn 



:iimmmmmrn 






j/Kiiiiiiiiiifiiiifiii 




Fig. i6. Feathered Diamond Stitch with Doi'ble 
Rows OF Outline Top.anu Bottom. See page 8 



l"lG. 15. IIIA.MO.M) StiTCM CoMlilN'Ell WITH SlNliLE AND 

Double Outline, Figs. 8 and 10. See page 8 

Practice a little and determine which way you like 
the best. The second row of the diamond is com- 
menced on the fourth line and worked up to meet 
the intersection of the diamond on the line above, 
forming a complete diamond. By close study of the 
illustration it is made very clear how this is worked. 
On the sixth line the single wave is commenced. 
Securing the thread and starting as for the diamond 
stitch, work from the sixth line to the fifth line the 
same number of stitches as in the diamond above, 
making the same turn on the line, two stitches, one 
up and one down, as in the diamond. Work as 
many rows as you are using shades of a color, and 
finish with the same diamond used to begin the 
design. 

The work on the sleeve could be simplified using 
one row of diamond, two rows of wave, one row of 
diamond : or simply one row of diamond is good 
here, with a row- of outline stitch each side of it. 
It is safe to allow three and one-half times for 
fullness used to smock in this manner. 

A Curved Wave (see Fig. 19) is worked from line 



of any gathering thread to the line above, using four 
stitches, as in single wave- ; then three stitches on the 
line ; then four stitches down to the line below ; then 
three stitches on this line ; tlien four stitches up to the 
line above; and as before, 
three stitches on the line. 
It is important to remem- 
ber that in going up in all 
forms of the wave thi' 
thread is kept above the 
needle. Very little prac- 
tice, and one acquires 
this quite readily. The 
necessity of some practice 
is urged upon the learner, 
before attempting gar- 
ments. The curved wave 
is usually used double, 
the second row the same 
as the first, one line 
apart, as in Fig. ig. 



Figure 15. Diamond 
Stitch. — The stitcli i- 
worked from left to right 
-Start your thread a-- 
in previous directions. 
Take one stitch in tin 
first plait over the gather 
ing thread, w'ith yom 
thread below the nei 
die. then one stitch in 
the second plait beside 
the first stitch, with the 
thread above the needle. 
This is the same as the 
cable stitch. Next pass 
down to half-way between 
the first and second gatli- 
ering thread, and take one 
stitch in the third plait 
with the thread above the 
needle, and another stitch 
in the fourth plait beside 
the third with the tliread 
below the needle. Then 
pass up again to the first 
gathering thread and take 
one stitch in the fifth plait 
with the thread below the 
needle, and the stitch lie- 
side it in the sixth plait 
with the thread above the 
needle : and continue to the 
end of the line. Be care- 
ful to take one stitch in 
every plait. This gives 
one-half of the diamond. 
The other half of the dia- 
mond is formed by start- 
ing on the second gather- 
ing thread and working 
up to half-way between the 
second and first gathering thread, so that the stitches 
meet the first half of the diamond. 

This simple pattern looks well when worked on the 
cotton crepes so much in favor for lingerie and simi- 




VJV\f\fV' 

wwia. 




lar uses. After marking the shirring lines on the 
sewing-machine shir the material, using the holes 
made by the machine-needle in stitching the rows. 
A fullness of three times is desirable. On the first 
gathering thread work 
outline stitch, then one row 
of one-half diamond; then 
outline; then comes one- 
lialf diamond on the 
fourth row ; then outline 
again on the fifth row, 
thus finishing the top of 
the pattern. On the 
seventh shirring thread 
begin the diamond stitch 
that forms the centre 
band, using three stitches 
up and three stitches down 
the one - half diamond. 
Work six rows, making 
live complete diamonds, 
i f you wish a wider band 
lo more rows, of course. 
.Shades of blue may be 
used throughout. The 
double outline is used, as 
sliown in the bottom row, 
with diamond stitch be- 
tween. A wise selection 
of materials and perfect 
workmanship makes these 
simple patterns charming. 
The lower band consist- 
ing of one row of diamond 
stitch with outline on 
eitlier side is all that is 
needed for the sleeves. 

Figure 16. Feathered 
Diamond. — W'c here have 
one of the most desirable 
stitches used in smocking, 
the feathered diatnond. In 
appearance it is most elab- 
orate, and it lends itself 
especially to shaded work 
and where a solid elabo- 
rate effect is desired. .Ml 
workers are enthusiastic 
over the possibilities of the 
feathered diamond, and in 
the working it grows rap- 
idly, presenting few difii- 
culties. It is really one of 
the easiest stitches to ac- 
quire and one of the most 
agreeable to make. This 
sample was worked i n 
navy blue cotton No. 5 on 
white linen ; eighteen rows 
of stitching were required 
for the gathering threads. 
The first and tliird rows of 
smocking are in outline with feathered diamond com- 
menced on the fourth row of shirring at the right. It 
is to be remembered that the feathered diamond is 
one of three stitches that is worked from right to left. 



I I'.i I \' \ \iiN Ki' S n 
OuTLiNK. (Fio. 8), Cahi-k (Fig. 
AND Wave (Fig. 13) 



You begin by securing the thread on the second plait 
as usual, that the knot does not get loose and spoil 
the work. Bring the needle up on the first plait on the 
right side of the goods on the first gathering thread. 
Now take the first and second plaits together, keep- 
ing the thread before the needle as in ordinary feather 
stitch; then one-half way between the lirst and sec- 
ond gathering thread take the second and third plaits 
together; then just escaping the second gathering 
thread take the third, and fourth plaits together; the 
thread as previously used before the needle. Then 
up to one-half way between the first and second 
gathering thread take the fourth and fifth plaits to- 
gether; then on the first gathering thread take the 
lifth and sixth plaits together: then down half-wax 1)e- 
tween the first and second gathering thread take the 
sixth and seventh plaits together; and continue in this 
manner to the end of the line. This is one-half of a 
feathered diamond. The second row is worked simi- 
larly, starting on the third gathering thread and work- 
ing to meet the first half diamond on the second gath- 
ering thread. Work until you have eight rows of 
diamonds. Finish as in the beginning with two rows 
in outline. 

Figure 17. Vandyke Stitch. — This stitch is of 
unusual beauty and importance and is one of the few 
stitches worked from right to left. Start your thread 



■ kiuiuill II II 



IMKIIIIIUHtnilMnitlMIDMI 



llllrttlMlHlhliilfiililfHtMlH 

ft tt rt ft <l ft n jj « »\ \\ \\ \\ ^\ ^\ y\ \\ /I 






\ • V ' 'i » ». f i.if r, f I' 




•« tt l« w 



li !• r» •' 



LMfiiilJ 



" •/ V u 



' ** V W «/ M »/ »/ V 

'^ " -i .? ; H M A 



\» U «t *f "' ^* ^» " *' '* ^- •. 

.. ;♦ «* rt * »♦ •* :; * ^ ,# )si )k )* .♦ 4 . 




Fic. 18. 1'mi\i ,\oki,ii, in DiAMoMi SrircH o.s 
CHECKtn DiMiTV. See page n 



I'll., icj. Till; CiKVEu W'avk i.^ lltKi. Shown, and 

Another \ ari.\tion of the Diamond Point. 

See page 12 

on the second plait on the right-hand side of the 
material in the usual manner on the first gathering 
thread. Bring the needle up on the first plait on the 
right side of tlie material. Pass the needle through 
the first two plaits together, and take one over. 
Then come down to the second gathering thread and 
take the second and third plait together with an- 
other stitch over. Then up again taking the third 
and fourth plait together with another stitch over; 
and so on to the end of the line. If the space be- 
tween the lines is wide enough, as when the shirring 
is done by the transfer dot method, you can start 
half-way lietween the two gathering threads and work 
down or up to the lines. A space of half the distance 
iKtween two gathering threads should always be left 
after every line of this stitch when worked single. 

The Double Vandyke Stitch is simply two 
rows of single \andyke stitch. Start your thread 
nn the third gathering thread, working up to the 
^econd gathering thread ; then down to the third 
Slathering thread, according to the previous directions 
Hiven for the single \'andyke. 

The X'andyke and the double Vandyke are used 
to advantage in points where either stitch has been 
used in connection with the pattern above the point 
( See Figs. 26 and 28) . The single V^andyke is at its 




Fig. 20. Blouse of Chkcked Dimity Smockf.u in Blue. See Detail Fig. 22 and page 13 



best when in a point. Onc-lialf a line or 
space is kept open between rows of single 
Vandyke, as shown. The double N'andyke 
is used to good advantage to linish a pat- 
tern, giving a fringe-like eflfect ; it can be 
used where the \'andyke has been used in 
the pattern above it. Be careful to separate 
different stitches or patterns by a row of 
outline or cable stitch ; otherwise, the 
beauty of the stitches is lost and a confused 
effect is the result. 

There are only four stitches used in 
smocking that are worked from right to 
left: the Feathered Diamond: the Vandyke; 
the little embroidered dot that is frequently 
worked between lines; also the Honeycomb 
stitch. 

The illustration (Fig. 17) begins with a row 
of single cable, which is really outline stitch 
with the thread reversed every other stitch. 
First the thread is below the needle ; then 
above the needle ; then below the needle ; 
then above the needle. This row of single 
cable is followed by a row in single outline. 
The useful and attractive band separating 
the single \andyke from the double Vandyke 
is placed between two rows of single outline, 
and is composed of stitches in double cable ; 
then a full diamond worked, using three 
stitches up and three stitches down. Then 
two double cable stitches followed by the dia- 
mond stitch and these stitches are alter- 




FiG. 21. Fagot- 
ing Stitch. 
See page 13 

10 



natcd across the line. Nothing is better than 
this simple line of stitches where an incon- 
spicuous separating line is desired. This 
illustration was worked on a striped dimity, 
lines stitched and spaces for stitches for 
shirring gauged by lines in the dimity. 

The student in smocking who has mas- 
tered all of the preceding studies or illus- 
trations, may now have the satisfaction of 
being rewarded, as we are ready for work 
f)n every variety of garment permitting the 
use of smocking. For blouses, handker- 
chief linen, crepe, chiffon cloth, etc., are 
favorite materials. Garden and sports smocks 
are being reproduced for house wear in 
Italian silk and crepe de Chine, voiles and 
other lovely materials. All sorts of lingerie 
are worked appropriately in this mode, and 
boudoir caps, matinees, etc., are included in 
the list. Motor bonnets are seen smocked 
to advantage. In children's wear frocks 
come first, and are made from six months' 
size to the party frock for a miss of four- 
teen years with equally satisfactory results. 
.^ lovely crepe for the house smocks comes 
in part wool and part silk at a moderate 
price, and when showing a dainty flower or 
dot of color, the smocking may be in the 
same colors with fine effect. A wider field 
for originality is seldom open to an inves- 
tigating mind. 




coocc<c 






' ' 1^ ^■ 










^ % I. I I. »?', , 
,>.' -II. »«-/-■ 

■II I'W 



A* 01. 



iiril^ 






♦•1 



Figure i8. The Making of Points. — Checked 
dimity was used lor speed in working. Kleven 
rows of shirring was used. This includes only two 
row's of diamond in the point to be shirred. The new- 
idea in this illustration is the point in diamond stitch. 
If the preceding studies and illustrations have been 
assimilated the worker is ready for the point, which 
is made without shirring its full depth. .\ most im- 
portant time-saving demonstration, 
which the worker is urged to acquire. 

One goes readily through the liody 
of the design, using first outline stitch, 
then double cable, then outline in posi- 
tion shown, then our recent lesson in 
Vandyke is put into practice ; then 
outline and double cable and outline 
again I'mish the tody of the design; 
and here we encounter 
our point on the second 
row below the outline. 
The first row of dia- 
mond is worked from 
line to line above across 
the line. The second 
row is worked in the 
same manner as the tirst 
row except you begin on 
the third row of shir- Fk;. 24. Reverse Over-a.n 





N Blouse, Fig. 20 

ring and work to the second row to meet the tirst row 
of diamond. (See Kig. 15.) This makes, as you see. 
a perfect diamond. 

Now holding your work so that the plaits are 
perpendicular as shown, work the second diamond, 
dropping one-half diamond on each side, or making 
each succeeding row one diamond less than the pre- 
ceding one. .As the eye is now trained to distance 
and one knows the requirements, it is 
unnecessary to shir for the point. 
Hold the work as directed, or secure 
the top of the piece to a table or 
other firm surface, using thumb- 
tacks and holding each fold where it 
would naturally be if shirred. Pull 
the plaits in place. It is advisable to 
baste or sew firmly a piece of cloth 
across the top of your 
work to use in pinning 
it down with the thumb- 
tacks. In this way your 
smocking is not injured, 
and jou can hold your 
plaits as tightly as is 
necessary. One might, 
if e.xperiencing difficul- 
ties, practice a point by 
itself. 



iLLio.N' .Stitch 
page 13 



D-OvFj< Stitch. See page 13 
11 




'oiM IN UiAMiiNii Smxii. 
page 14 



hM-c 



Figure 19 is again worked on checked dimity to 
further illustrate the point. The outline and Vandyke 
stitch are now old acquaintances, so we proceed to the 
curved wave. This is much admired, and gives an 
elaborate, unusual ai)pearance to a piece of work. 
However, it is simple enough in execution. The 
wave we have had and mastered (Fig. 13), and the 
curved wave is very similar. Thus work from a 
given line four outline stitches up to the line above; 
then, curving very slightly, three stitches in out- 
line are worked just above the line; then four out- 
line stitches are worked down again to the tirst 
line; then three outline .stitches are worked just be- 
low this line, and then four stitches in outline again 
to the line above; then the three in outline just above 
the line. This is one row of the curved wave. The 
second line is worked one space either below or 
above the first line. In this case. Fig. 10, fifteen lines 
were used or fifteen checks. The two rows of 
\'andyke were worked and then the curved lines or 
wave put. Between these lines is shown a row of 
dots in a deeper shade than the waved lines. These 



dots are worked from right to left. Two plaits are 
taken together and two stitches taken over them. 
Then the needle is carried under two plaits, and 
in the ne.\t two plaits another dot is worked. The 
point in this case begins with one row of full 
diamond across the piece. This row of diamonds 
is divided into spaces of six diamonds. As one 
proceeds drop one diamond in every succeeding 
row. one-half on either side. These two patterns are 
charming and quite elaborate enough for all or- 
dinary uses. Of course, if you fail to make your 
t'oiiil without shirring, you will have to resort to 
shirred lines until you are a more independent worker. 

Spacing Points. — There is no inflexible rule for 
spacing points, as points are used large or small, as 
suits the requirements of the work and the taste of 
the worker. (See Figs. 18 and 19.) Count your 
diamonds when across the line. Divide the number 
c\enly if you can, or unevenly, if you must. Make 
as many points as required, using the same number 
of stitches in all. If you have twenty-five diamonds 
you can have five points of four diamonds each, 
leaving always a space between the points of one ilia- 
mond in the first row. As rows increase the space 
increases in proportion, as you drop one-half dia- 
mond on either side as you proceed or narrow your 
work. Suppose you find you have twenty-live dia- 
monds in all; you must start four points of four 
diamonds each, making twenty diamonds. Now you 
ha\'e one extra rlinni'md In jir'i^-irlc f^ir nnrl rmi use 




I'lG. Jb, 



Pol.N'T IX V.\NnVKl: 

page 



Stitch. 



See h'ig. 17 and 



12 



ii 



this in the ccntrt- or third point to advantage, as it 
usually looks better to have the centre of the gar- 
ment with a deeper point than the other points. Tlie 
illustration shows a point of nine diamonds. Figure 
19 shows a point of six diamonds, and one readily 
understands that points are not arbitrary factors, but 
are quite a<laptable. 

Figure ao. Ladies' Blouse of Checked Dimity. — 

The blouse sliown is' smocked and embroidered in 
three shades of blue. Two threads of stranded cot 
ton were used throughout. 

Waist and sleeves are of the checked dimity, with 
collar, cuffs, and vestee of handkerchief linen 
edged with applied hems of the dimity. 

The materials used were as follows : Three yards 
checked dimity ; 5 skeins stranded cotton ; I dozen 
buttons ; ' .> yard handkerchief linen, for collar, 
vestee, and culTs. The applied hems w'ere finished 
on their edges with a reversed over-and-over stitch 
(see Fig. -'4), and joined to collar, cuffs, and vestee. 
using the fagoting stitch with buttonhole stitch 
down the centre, as shown by Fig. 21. The illus 
tration does not convey an adequate impression of 
the charming color and stitch combinations. A use- 
ful linish liaving very good effect was the simu- 
lated buttons or .spiders on either side of the blouse 
front worked in two shades of blue. (See Fig, 51, 
page 26.) No detailed description is needed of these 
stitches, as the illustrations are perfectly comprehen- 
sive. To make the sprays of embroidery a spool is 





I'oiNr i.v Dorni.i; \'\\ii\ki 
Fig. 17 and page 16 



STiTi 11. .See 



Fig, -7. Jahot Showim; \ Practicai. Ai-imji ation 0¥ 

Point in Dia.mdnd or Vasuyki; Stitch. 

See. page 16 



used to curve the stems that are marked with a pen- 
cil and worked in outline stitch. The budlike ef- 
fect of the bullion-stitch embroidery is secured by 
taking three stitches in bullion stitch, winding the 
thread si.x times around the needle. (See Fig. 23.) 
The centre stitch can be in a deeper shade, with 
charming effect. 

The smocking pattern across the top of the waist 
fronts where attached to the yoke is shown in detail 
on page II. .\ny waist pattern may oe used which 
proviiles for gathered fronts att.iched to a shoulder 
yoke, allowing for a fullness of three times, if checked 
dimity is used (as in Fig. I). If plain material is 
used, an<l shirring threads marked by sewing-ma- 



13 




Fig. 29. HoNEvco^rr! Smacking Dom; un liA.\D-Rux 
Ticks. See page 17 

chine method, allow for fullness according to tahle 
on page 4. Beginners are advised to try a sample 
of the goods they wish to use for fullness, before 
beginning a blouse. 

Figure 22. — This illustration shows in detail the 
work done on the blouse shown on the previous 
page, and a description of the stitches will not be 
given, reference to preceding directions being 
deemed sufficient. Nineteen rows of shirrings were 
made for the smocking of the fronts, using every 
second cord of the dimity, giving a fullness of 
three times. The first row is outline stitch ; the 
second row double cable, which is two rows of 
single cable; the third row is outline; the fourth 
row is a curved wave, beginning on the fifth line 
and working to the fourth line; the fifth row is the 
second of the curved wave, beginning on the 
sixth line and worked to fifth line, four stitches 
up, one on each of four plaits, three above the 
line, and four stitches down to the line below ( see 
illustration for proportions) just meets the line 
in the curve (see direction for curved wave. Fig. 
19); the sixth line is outline; seventh line is 
double cable; eighth line is outline; ninth line is 
Vandyke worked down to the tenth line ; tenth 
line just meets the line, leaving room for tin- 
lower Vandyke to join on the line : eleventh 
line, worked to the tenth line, is Vandyke, mak- 
ing double Vandyke; twelfth line is outline: thir- 
teenth line is double cable; fourteenth line is out- 
line. On the fifteenth line the diamond is be- 



gun for the points, working to the si.xtecnth 
line six and one-half times across the line; 
the seventeenth line is worked to the six- 
teenth line, completing the diamond. Work 
across the line. (See detail of diamond stitch. 
Fig. 15.) The following rows of diamonds 
forming points are worked w'ithout shirring by 
holding or fastening the work in a manner to 
retain plaits already formed. This method 
possesses the added virtue of leaving the mate- 
rial free from shirring marks as well as being 
a time-saver. I never mark a point except 
when doing honeycomb work. 

The finishing ornaments at the tip of the 
point are in bullion stitch taken three times, 
with the thread wound seven times around the 
needle. The needle used should be round 
eyed, as this sort has no enlargement at the 
eye and allows the stitch to slip easily ofT the 
needle. Otherwise the stitch is spoiled. 

Figure 25. — The illustration shows a design 
suitable for women's frocks and blouses, or for 
children's frocks. When used on a crepe de 
Chine frock or blouse the sinocking stitches 
may be worked in silks of the same shade with 
a very good effect. The illustration shown was 
(lone with white cotton on plain pink madras. 
The sewing-machine w-as^^used to secure the 
lines and spaces, and in this case the point 
was also worked, using the shirred lines. Stitch 




Fio. JO. M.\i H I \ I -S ( 

Kl.CO.M .ML.NUtU 



\i<i: .\i.>o 



bee page 18 



14 



on your sewing-machine twenty-four lines. 
Do the preparation for tlie snioclcing stitches 
as shown by Kig. 5, page 4. Draw up the 
shirring threads, secure them ; pull the work 
into place and work the lirst row in single 
outline stitch (see Fig. 6, page 4)- Work 
the second row in single cable stitch across 
the line (see Kig. 11); the third row in 
single outline stitch across the line. On the 
fourth gathering thresd work a wave or 
half-diamond, using three stitches up and 
three stitches down (see Fig. 15), working 
down to the fifth line. This gives one-half 
of the diamond, as shown in the illustration. 
(The wave and the half-diamond are fre- 
quently the same thing, depending on its 
application.) The second row of diamond 
stitch is worked, beginning on the sixth 
gathering thread, and down to the seventh, 
as shown by Fig. 15, page ". Reversing the 
points on the seventh gathering thread work 
to the eighth, as on the line above. This 
secures a wave efTect on either side of a 
diamond. This is often named the double 
diamond. 

This idea can be carried out in any num- 
ber of stitches, thus increasing tlic size of 
the wave and of the diamond, and several 
rows of \va\e can be worked. When doing 
shaded work this idea is extremely desir- 
able. The three lines following this pattern 
show single outline, cable and single out- 
line, as in the beginning of the illustration. 
Now we have a point worked in the dia- 
mond stitch, using two stitches, one up and 
one down. Work one full diamond across 




I'lG. jj. Det.ml of Smocki.ng on Child's Coat 



lie. Ji. CniLo's Lung Chat ok White 1'rench Sf.R(.k. 
See page 18 

the line; then divide the line, as is shown in the illus- 
tration. Work row after row in diamond stitch, drop- 
ping one-half diamond at each side of every row ; thus 
you narrow to a point. This is an excellent piece of 
work for a beginner in smocking to practice on for 
plain and shaded work, and to firmly establish the 
principle of the point. In working the diamond point, 
one applies the same principle as in the cliamonds in 
the centre of the middle row. 

Figure 26. — Here we have the Vandyke stitch, both 
single and double. The double Vandyke is shown in 
line row of the band, with the familiar and useful 
i.utlinc on either side. The single Vandyke forms the 
point. The mastering of this illustration is most essen- 
tial at this time, as used in connection with the pre- 
\ious illustration (Fig. 2.^). The detail of the Van- 
dyke stitch is given on page 8, Fig. 17, and need not 
be repeated here. This point, as shown, was worked 
on stripc<l dimity. The lines were stitched on the 
sewing-machine and the cords in the material used 



IS 



Fic. 3.?. An ExAMi 

CuRVKK Lines, thk i 

THE Number or I 

Sc 



for spacing the 
s t i t c li e s . 
Thirty- 
one rows were 
used and the 
point begun 
with twenty- 
one stitches. A 
space of one 
line was ob- 
served between 
each row, and 
one - half stitch 
was dropped on 
either side as 
the work pro- 
gressed, as in 
every case in 
making points. 

The value of 
shading is well dem- 
onstrated in such 
work as this, and 
makes for beauty in 
an unusual degree. 
Commence at the base 
of the point with the 
darkest shade and work 
lighter toward the tip. 
Smocking, to be desirable, 
need not of necessity be ex- 
tremely line in quality or exe 
cution. Just good work and ^r- 
good designing with suitability in 
application are the requisites. 

Figure 27.— The jabot illustrated is o- 

a dainty affair, and possesses much 
beauty of workmanship. The material of ''^^. 
handkerchief linen, edgc<l with thread lace, 
was ably supplemented by the dainty smocking 
work, in shades of violet, two threads of the six- 
strand cotton being used. The embroidery shown 
I'n point and in the centre of the jabot was in French 
.stem stitch and Inillion stitch. Stem stitch is a running 
stitch covered with over-and-over stitch. The bullion stitch 

was taken three times with the thread wrapped seven times d' 

around the needle, forming tiny budlike effects, with the centre _j_.. 

stitch of a darker shade. This our illustratinn shows plainly. .\ piece ^"^. 

of linen fourteen inches square is required : the bottom is slanted from two 
inches on each side of the centre (see illustration). The top of the jabot was 
prepared for the smocking stitches by using the sewing-machine, eight stitches to the inch. 
Six rows were stitched. The lirst row is worked in single outline. The second row is in 
single Vandyke; the third row single outline: the fourth row single outline: dots are worked between the third 
and fourth rows, as shown. The fifth row is in single outline — and single Vandyke stitch is worked between 
the fourth and the lifth rows. The sixth row is one-half diamond (see Fig, 15, page 7), and the point in 
diamond or Vandyke stitch, as preferred. The seventh row is one-half diamond, making a full diamond. 
Four full diamonds are worked across the line. The point consists of diamonds, one-half diamond dropped 
on either side until the point is reached. 

Figure 28. — Here we have a very important illustration, showing the Vandyke stitch in connection with 
the featlicred diamond. Twenty-seven rows were prepared, using the sewing-machine fur marking the lines 
and spaces. Six stitches to the inch gave the size of the plait. The work being prepared, on the tirst gathering 
thread work single outline ; on the second and third gathering threads single Vandyke : third and fourth single 
Vandyke: the fifth row single outline. Tlie fifth row shows outline again. The sixth, seventh, eighth, ninth, 
and tenth rows show feathered diamond to goc)d advantage (see Fig. l()l. The eleventh line is single outline, 
and now we have our point in double Vandyke, worked once across the line in full \'andyke and then divideil 

16 




urved Lines 



»F Smocking Done on 
R Row Havi.nc DoillLE 
; OF THE Inner Row 
Se 18 




into points, as 
shown, of fonr- 
tfcn full Van- 
dyke stitches. 

Any number 
of stitches can 
lie used that 
are liked. This 
stitch covers 
the work with 
a lacelike ef- 
fect, and must 
not be worked 
too tightly. The 
stitch is not as 
elastic as others ; 
but it is of great 
beauty, the rich- 
est point in smock- 
ing. Its slow exe- 
c u t i o n deters 
workers from using 
it generally, yet the 
finest quality of work 
frequently shows this 
beautiful point. 



Honeycomb Smocking. 

— Tins is undoubtedly the 

first form of the smocking 

stitch, and is the stitch most 

frequently seen on women's 

dresses and coats, and to a 

considerable extent on children's 

garments. For a very handsome 

illustration, see Fig. 31. 

There are several different methods 

of preparing material for honeycomb 

smocking, and all ways lead to the same 

result. 

Material marked with dots, as I'ig. 7, may be 

shirred or not, as preferred, for it is perfectly 

feasible to work the stitch on the dots without 

shirring. 

Begin work on second row of dots at upper right- 

\ hand side. Fasten thread securely so that it will not pull 

■w' through. Rring needle up through second dot, take first and 

^ second dots together, then over once again in lirst dot, pass needle 

up back of material to first row and take second and thinl dots together 

in same way. Down again to second row and take third and fourth dots 

together. Then to first and take fourth and fifth dots. In other words, the dot 

vertically parallel to the one last worked becomes the first in the succeeding stitch. A 

point begins with any number divisible by two or four and ends with two dots (see Fig. 7). 

Figure 29. — This illustration shows a method of preparing material for ihe honeycomb stitch, which is at 
every woman's command — hand-run tucks run or basted into place. The tucks are measured as when doing any 
hand-tucking, the space between the tucks determining the size or width of the diamond. Use a card to measure 
for the length, which should be about the same as the width from point to point. 

Honeycomb smocking done on tucked material is worked from the Ujt side from top to bottom. Take first 
and second tucks together, over again, bring needle down inside second tuck to one-half the depth of the diamond, 
take second and third tucks together and one stitch over. Come down full length of diamond, take first and 
second tucks of diamond, take first and second tucks together as before, then second and third tucks again and 
repeat the length desired. One row of work gives two rows of dots. 2d ro7c — Take third and fourth tucks 
together, once over, come down one-half width of diamond and take fourth and fifth tucks together, and continue 
length desired. .?</ roti' — Take fifth and sixth tucks together, one-half diamond down take sixth and seventh 
tucks together, then fifth and sixth, and so on. The diamond should be oblong in shape when finished, although 
the material for each diamond is square. 

17 



r'**'*^ N»^.' '?<•«.«'<*.••', 



,-V^'V 









Figure 30 gives 
still another varia- 
tir>n for preparing 
the I'.oneycomb 
smockini?. In this 
case the tucks were 
stitclied on the 
sewing - machine, 
using the tucker 
i'>r the purpose. 
Ibis is recom- 
mended when an 
amount of smock- 
ing is to be made, 
as it is absolutely 



which sliiiw the embnjidered scallops matching the 
embroidery on the collars. Feather-stitching at the 
Iienis still further decorates this desirable coat for baby. 

Figure 33. — To smock on any line except a perfectly 
straight one has not heretofore been accomplished; 
with the one exception of the Bishop model ; and in 
that solitary case it has not been entirely successful. 
In this illustration is shown what can be accomplished 
on the curve when using the machine-stitched lines. 
You cannot possibly smock on a curve when using 
any other method. Heretofore patterns have con- 
formed to their intended decoration when smocking 
was to be used, and the result has been a noticeable 
uniformity of outline in garments showing this em- 



Fic, ,^4. 

Stitchus 

Used on 

Slef.vf, of 

Fig. 35 

right and 
works 
q u i c k 1 \- . 
Here again 
one iises the 
card to 
measure the 
depth of the 
d i a lu ond. 
Use tucker 
as for all 
tucking, 
one - eighth- 
inch t u c k, 
one - eighlli- 
i n c h space, 
and so on. 

Figure 31. 

— . Here we 
show a prac 
tical applica- 
tion of hon- 
e y c o m 1> 
s m o c king. 
The w o r k 
was done in 
this case on 
stitched 
lines. The 
points were 
stitched to 
the depth 
desired, and 
the smocking 




,VT. ' 11 111' - 

t URVEIl Ll.M 



i' 



■S-. SlloUIXI. Sm 

34 and 30, and page 



I xc. 

"J 



quickly done with great precision. 



Figure 32 shows honeycomb smocking enlarged. The 
coat has a yoke, to wliich the smocking is joined, and 
the yoke is covered by the deep collar. The smocking 
is done on the back as on the front, and the upper 
collar is in two pieces, back and front alike. 

The sleeves are smocked above the turn-up cuffs. 



bellishmcnt. a n d 
but little progress 
has been made 
With the adveni 
of embroidered 
smocking, using 
the stitched lines, 
these conditions 






,i?> 



■^." 



^< 



X' "V 



y 



iV. 



"V 



Fig. 36. 



I'lii- 35 



18 



I 



have been altered, and Siiiocking 
has gained tremendously in pupii- 
larity ; as in using this method 
one can do smocking wherever 
one can stitch a hne. 

In preparing the material for 
the illustration, a perfect circle of 
ten inches in diameter was 
stitched on white sateen, using the 
sewing-machine for' lines and 
spaces. Twelve rows were stitched, 
the circle widening to twenty 
inches, each successive row, of 
necessity, having many additional 
stitches and plaits, the last row 
doubling the first row. The points 
after the tirst two rows of dia- 
monds were free-hand work or 
folds held in position from pre- 
vious stitches. In smocking onr 
is not likely to meet such a neces- 
sity as this : but the illustration 
is most useful as an example, ami 
can be imitated in a moditied form 
in many instances. The break in 
the stitches caused by the increas- 
ing number of plaits is handled, 
using outline stitch to divide 
the rows, thus permitting the use 
of the increased number of plaits. 
This is a piece of work much ad- 
mired. It is unusual and a bit 
difficult. It is necessary in dnin;,' 
work like this that the material 





. .57- AnoI III l< r.l-lhil' I IKI --, M Ml 

Dimity .\.\i> S.vincKtu in Sh.\ui;s 
See Fig. 38 and page 20 



( 1 1 1 ■ K 

Pink. 



Fig. 38. Det.ml of S.mocking o.\ Child's Dress, 
Fig. 37 



be well covered by the stitches, as unavoidably the folds 
or plaits are irregular. The stitches used are single out- 
line on the lirst line, double cable on the second line, 
one-half diamond on the third line, and double cable on 
the fourth line. Following this are four lines of wave, 
using three stitches up and three stitches down for the 
wave. .After these one row of full diamond, and then 
points made in diamond stitch. It will be noticed that 
the points vary in size ; two points on either side begin 
with seven diamonds each, and two points in the centre 
of the work begin with ten diamonds each. The color 
used for working was navy blue, but shading would im- 
prove this or a similar pattern very much. 

Figure 35. Child's Bishop Dress. — This practical 
and attractive little frock shows the Bishop or peasant 
model familiar to every mother. It is similar to our 
previous illustration in outline ; and again the neck 
curve is pronounced and we apply the same princi- 
ple in preparing the work, viz. : the stitched lines and 
spaces being used to fine advantage. The smocking 



19 




\va\c ill three slitclios. Ihe edges 
of tile ccillar ami cuffs show the 
doiililc ovtr-anil-over stitch (Kig. 
24, page II), and are further or- 
namented with little embroidered 
spiders ( Kig. 51, page 26). This 
frock was also made worked in 
shades of red, and was more 
elaborate in appearance, owing to 
the shading. One makes a great 
mistake when one economizes on 
materials, as ordinary material 
,i;ieatly detracts from tlie best 
work, rendering it undesiralile. It 
is better to err on the side of ex- 
travagance in material. The hand- 
made cord and tassels which 
lace together the collar points give 
a touch of distinction. 

Figure 37. Child's Dress. — 

Here we have the Hishop model 
again in a different material and 
treatment. This little frock is in 
fciur-vear-old size, and is very 
dainty. The material is cross-bar 
dimity, very fine, and the smocking 
is dune in shades of rose-color. 



Fig. 39. English Smuck Model ihr LSov. See Figs. 40 and 41 and page 21 




work 

Fig. 

sists 

rows 

cable. 



Fig. 40. Detail of Smocking on 
B.^cK OF Fig. 39 



on yoke, 
36, con- 
of three 
of single 
one row 
of wave in 
three stitches, 
one full dia- 
mond in three 
stitches, one 
row of wave in 
three stitches, 
three rows of 
single cable, 
three rows of 
wave as above. 
The smocking 
on the sleeve. 
Fig. 34, shows 
two rows single 
cable, one row 
full diamond, 
two rows sin- 
gle cable, and 
three rows of 



This little frock has a 
Dutch neck and elbow 
sleeves ; a four-inch 
hem, and a bit of rib- 
bon-run lace beading 
at neck and sleeves 
completes the detail. 
Two yards of dimity 
and four skeins of cot- 
ton were the inaterials 
required for this little 
frock. 

The illustration 
shows clearly the detai 
of the work on Fig. 
37. The neck curves, 
and was therefore 
stitched for lines and 
spaces. Twelve lines 
were required, as the 
points were made free- 
hand. The first row 
was single cable ; the 
second row, one- 
half diamond; the 




•"11;. 41. Df.t.ml of Smocki.ng 
o.\ Front of Fig. 39 



20 



% 




F'lo. 42. Blouse uf Fink Ciikckkd I-'rexch Dimitv Smik-ki:i) and Embroidekko in Shames ok Blue. 

detail, Fig. 43. and page Ji 



bee 



\ 



third TOW, single caMe : the fourth row. dots ; the 
fifth row, single cable; the sixth, seventh, and 
eighth rows wave in three stitches ; the ninth row. 
single outline : tenth and eleventh rows, double 
Vandyke: twelfth row. single outline; thirteenth row. 
full diamond. The points in front began with six 
diamonds. The points on the sides began with five 
diamonds. For points in diamond stitch see Fig. 18, 
page 9. 

Figure 39. English Smock. — In this play frock 
for a boy we show an Miin1ish smock model. Every 
small boy would be well garlied in such a play gar- 
ment as this comfortable and indestructible smock. 
The material was a stout Scotch madras, golden 
brown in color, with smocking of a different color; 
blue in this case. This garment, well buttoned up in 
front, the turn-over collar and cuffless sleeves with a 
bit of stitchery at the wrist, is as simple as one could 
possibly imagine. It is moderate in price, and looks 



quite distinctive in the right place. The back of the 
garment shows smocking in the centre to match the 
smocking on the fronts. (See Fig. -.j.) 

Figures 40 and 41. — Figure 40 shows the detail of 
smock in the back. Figure 41 gives detail of the 
smocking on the fronts. The first row is diamond; 
second row, single cable; third row, diamond; fourth 
and fifth rows, single cable; sixth row, diamond; and 
the seventh row, wave in four stitches, worked so as 
to meet the row of diamond. The dotted transfer 
was used to mark up this piece of work and lines 
were wide apart a^ seen. 

Figure 42. Ladies' Blouse of Checked Dimity. 
— Here we show a beautiful piece of work and a 
charming and useful garment. The -material used was 
French dimity in a fine check, and the smocking 
threads were shaded from navy to very light, in five 
shades of blue, six-stranded cotton, two strands being 



21 



used for the smockiiiR. The sleeves are elhow length, 
as shown, with smocking above a wide turned-up 
cuff. These cuffs and the collar have rolled hems, 
and then plain linen bands are added. Fagoting joins 
this linen edge or hem to the collar and cuffs. (See 
Fig. 21 page lo, for detail of this work.) The 

embroidered 






,ii.>\f(lu\((iv,>l}lj,,,ViVy,>* 



\\ssuimJ)^ 




Fig. 



43. Uetaii. of Smockinc 
Blouse, Fig. 42 



sprays, etc., are 
in outline stitch 
and bullion 
stitch. The 
curves are 
shaped, using a 
spool and pen- 
cil. The simu- 
lated buttons 
are made in a 
spider-web ef- 
fect. (See Fig. 
51, page 26, for 
detail.) 

The prepara- 
tion for these 
smocking stitch- 
es was done 
by taking u p 
checks one- 
eighth of an 
inch apart and 
fifteen rows of 
shirs were re- 
quired, as the 
entire shaded 
band at the 
finish in o n e- 
h a I f diamond 
stitch is done 
free-hand without shirring; the folds simply held 
in place. When one has progressed as far as 
this waist, this free-hand work is natural, or ought 
to be. However, this very waist was the garment 
a pupil took as a first lesson ; and this pupil 
excelled her teacher, too. The detail on page 22, 
Fig. 4.^, shows the work fully and gives an idea of 
the shading. F'urther explanation is entirely super- 
fluous. 

Figure 45. — This very pretty and stylish waist 
was designed and worked by a pupil as her first ef- 
fort in smocking. The material was cliecked dimity, 
and the work was done using dark blue round 
thread cotton No. 20. The high collar is worn with 
a stock and turn-over of embroidery. The sleeves end 
in straight cuffs or bands with some bullion-stitch 
on them. The distinctive features of this waist are 
two : The white smocking at the neck above the blue 
smocking, and the tucks below the smocking. These 
tucks are edged with double over-and-over stitch 
and dotted with bullion stitches. The sleeves also 
show original treatment, .^bove the smocked band 
that is seen above the elbow are tucks again ; thus 
undesiral)le fullness is eliminated. .Attention to de- 
tail, combined with an artistic sense, made of a very 
inexpensive garment a thing of beauty. This waist 
opens under the side plait in front. The back is 
tucked and no color or smocking is used. The detail 
of work on the blouse is shown on page 22, Fig. 44. 



The material, checked dimity, was smocked to the 
desired depth, as shown in w-hite work above the 
blue band. The blue band, as shown by I'ig. 44. was 
worked, the first row in single outline ; the fourth 
and fifth rows in double vandyke; then single out- 
line, and double cable and single outline followed 
with three rows of wave. Above this band the ma- 
terial is held in place, as shown, by rows in single 
cable stitch, worked with fine white cotton. This is 
a good idea and disposes of undesirable fullness in a 
novel manner. The fidlness below the blue band is 
held by tucks that are ornamented and held in posi- 
tion by bullion stitch, which is another good idea. 
No sewing is done otherwise; in other words, the 
tucks are not held by a running stitch, as is usually 
the case. 

Figure 46. Child's Princess Panel Frock. — This 
unusual model is made still more attractive by the use 
of smocking stitches in shaded effect. Blue was the 
color chosen for ornamenting this little frock for a 
girl of six years. The material was English checked 
dimity; turn-over collar, topped by a band of Irish 
crochet, riblion run, holding in place the low Dutch 
neck. Embroidered scallops and bullion-stitched dots 
decorate the collar and cuffs, and the panel front also 
shows sprays of embroidery done in bullion stitch in 
shades of blue. The sleeves are finished with turn- 
over cuff's and some smocking is above the cuffs. The 
panel is finislied with fagoting worked in two shades 
of blue between two rows of outline stitch; this fagot- 
ing extends around the waist of the dress to the back. 



Di' 











h'u:. 44. Detail of Waist, Img. 45 



22 




Figure 47 shows the detail of the smocking stitches 
on Child's Frock, Fig-. 46. The elalwrate effect is se- 
cured by the shading and the work being fine. How- 
ever, it is extremely simple, as only three or four 
different stitches are used, viz. : the first line is in 
single outline; the second line in double cable; the 
third line, single outline; the fourth, fifth, and sixth 
lines are used for the double Vandyke; and the 
seventh line shows single outline again. From the 
eighth line is worked twelve rows of wave, using 
three stitches rather close together and shaded from 
dark to light. (See the illustration.) These lines of 



ig. 44 and jiaye JJ 



wave are worked without preparation, work simply 
being held in place. 

Figure 48. Child's Frock.— This little frock 
shows pink shades in the smocking stitches and bul- 
lion embroidery is used to further decorate the gar- 
ment. This embroidery lends itself especially well 
where smocking is done. Cross stitch also is very ap- 
propriate and much used in little floral designs. 
Pretty linen dresses and play frocks are shown in 
colors, embroidered with birds and animals in lovely 
colors on the collar and cuffs. These are verv un- 



23 



usual, and liigli class when tlie embroidery is done 
in cross stitch or Kensington stitch. Our little 
frock has thrce-and-one-lialf-inch tucks worked in 



of stitches and the quality of the work, as well 
as coloring combined to make this a very pretty 
frock, and well wurtli the task nf making. 




Fig. 46. Child' 

Princess Pankl 

Fkuck or 

DlMITV 



outline stitch in shades as 
shown. The material is fine 
handkerchief linen. Two and 
one-half yards are required. 
The sleeves show tucking and it 
serves to subdue the fullness, as 
well as adding to the appearance. 
A four-inch hem, a bit of ribbon 
and one yard of X'alencicnnes 
lace, and some Irish inser- 
tion linish the frock. (Sec 
Fig. 49.) 

Figure 49 gives the detail of 
the work on Fig. 48. The 
stitched method was used for 
preparing for the work, ten rows 
being required. As the points 
were free-hand, the arrangement 



^»^>JH>ij w y V M ^ V V V «<f (f*^ 






;i<;^^*;<«^^^^■ 







Flo. 47. Uktaii. of Fic. 4D 
24 



SmoCKI;!! A.Nl) Em- 
BROIDKREI) IN SHADES 

OF Blue. See 
page 22 

Figure 50. Garden Smock.— 
Leaving frocks for a time, we 
show in this illustration one of 
the garden smocks so much in 
favor. The usefulness and com- 
fort embodied in this model are 
well known, and from a modest 
beginning these smocks have 
grown in favor until now some 
of them are sumptuous affairs. 
When such materials as Italian 
silks and pussy willow silks, also 
cripe de Chine are employed, 
these smocks are delightful. 
.\mong materials a silk and cot- 
ton, and silk and wool crepe, are 
favorites and also moderate in 
price. Take one of these 
crepes in white, smock it in 
a favorite color, put on a 



striped collar and cuffs in silk 
to match the smocking 
stitches and a plain white 
sash, one has a most distinc- 
tive garment ; and it launders, 
too. A white Italian silk had 
pale lemon smocking, with 
just a touch of green and 
black stitchery. A collar and 
cufifs showed stitches fn these 
colors. The sash of the Ital- 
ian silk, with the ends cross- 
stitched a bit in the same 
colors was charming. 

The model shown was de- 
veloped in coral pink crc-pe : 
the collar, cutTs. and belt were 
in white crepe ; all the stitch- 
es were worked in colors, 
shades of pink, some black 
and white. The garment was 
laced in front in true smock 
fashion. White crepe buttons 
over ivory molds were 
worked in spider effect in 
shades of pink. (See Fig. 
51.) Figure 52 gives the de- 
tail of the stitches used 
on the belt, collar and cuffs, 
consisting of an outline in 





l"io. 48. .\,mjthek Mooti. Kok .\ Chii.ii's FkiK k. See detail, Fig. 49, and 

page 2.5 



Fig. 49. Detail of Fig. 



1) 1 a c k and 
bu ttonhole- 
stitches in 
two shades of 
pink on either 
side. The 
work is all 
easy to do 
and fascinat- 
ing to a de- 
gree. 

This gar- 
ment has a 
yoke to which 
t h e Smocked 
fronts are at- 
tached. The 
back is in one 
piece with 
smocking 



midway between the shoulders to match that on the 
fronts. The illustration shows an effective combina- 
tion of the different colors. 

We read of smocks and smocking in Queen .June's 
time and earlier, and a description of garments 
smocked in golden threads and in silver on silk and 
satin has an attractive sound. With each revival of 
a mode progress is made, and in embroidered smock- 
ing this era has made an important advance. Be- 
sides, embroidered smocking is purely .\merican, and 
now one can smock anything and in any grade, as 
fine as possible or the reverse. 



Figure 53. Sports Smock. — This sports smock 
was developed in blue crepe cloth with crepe for col- 
lar, cuffs, and belt. A row of outlining in heavy silk 
and double over-and^over stitch is the decoration on 
the collar, cuffs, and belt. Buttons with embroidery 
are seen tm the fronts and on the belt. The 



25 




Fir.. 50. 



Spokts Smock of Coral Pink Emukuiukkko in Siiai>i;s of Pink 
Black, and White. See page 24 



.smocking is done in wliite, (See Fig. 54.) 

Figure 54. — This illustration shows the detail of 
the smocking stitches used on Fig. 53. Twenty-one 
rows were stitched on the sewing-machine for lines 
and spaces. Seven stitclies to the inch were used. 
After the usual preparation, smocking stitches 
were worked as follows ; First row, single outline : 
second row, two douhle cahle and one full diamond 
across the line; third row, single outline. Three rows 
of wave, using three stitches up and three stitches 
down follow, and then on the eighth line we work 
cable stitch across five times, forming the band. A 
band in feathered diamond, of six rows or five full 
diamonds, comes next, followed by a band of cable, 
as in the beginning of the pattern ; single outline. 
double cable and diamond and single outline finish 
the design. 

Figure 55. — • This detail shows the combina- 



tion of simple stitches used 
on the Child's Parly Frock, 
Fig. 56. The upper part of the de- 
sign is worked around the skirt. 
The lower part of the design is on 
the top and bottom of the waist 
front. The work on the sleeves 
is the same as on the skirt. Eight 
lines were stitched for the skirt. 
On the first line was worked dou- 
ble cable ; on the second, third, and 
fourth lines is worked the wave, 
using four stitches up and four 
down: the fifth line, double cable. 
The point is worked in diamond, 
two stitches up and two stitches 
down, worked across the line, 
then divided into uneven num- 
bers. Make the points in even 
numbers, leaving one diamond be- 
tween each point. The smock- 
ing on the waist consists of — 
first line, double cable; second 
line, dots; third, double cable; 
work fourth, fifth, and sixth lines 
wave in four stitches w'ithout 
preparation. Figure 55 shows 
t h e smocking 
stitches in de- 
tail. This is ex- 
tremely simple 
work, and the 
I oloring, shades 
of rose, is very 
■4ood. The 
ilimity also is 
of the best, and 
the lace at the 
neck and 
sleeves gives an 
additional fin- 
ish to a very 
pretty frock for 
a four - year - 
old. The sim- 
ulated buttons 
are in the now 
familiar spid- 
er's web. Indeed they are used on sleeves, at neck 
and in the back, for this frock is the same in work 

back and front. The 
sleeves are laid in 
tucks, doing away 
with unnecessary 
fullness. Cords 
and tassels are of 
tlie same cotton as 
used for the smock- 
ing stitches. This 
model has been 
much admired, and 
looks very simple 
when worn, It is a 
pretty party or (lanc- 
ing school frock 
for a small maiden. 
The frontispiece 




Fk;. 52. Detail 

OF Stitch Used 

in Fig. 39- 

See page 25 




Fig. 51. 



Button Wokkku in 
Spider Web 



26 




Fici. 53. Sports Smuck oi- Blul Cklpl vvirii Wiiiii-. Cullak. CutFa, and Belt. See detail, I'ig. 54, and page ^5 



shows another pretty adaptation of this simple smock- 
ing design on a child's party frock. 

Three sliades of a color are recommended for this 
pattern, either rose or blue, as preferred, and two or 
three threads of stranded cotton are best adapted for 
working. Use the darker shade for the lines of wave- 



stitch, the next shade for the double cable stitch on 
either side and. commencing with the darkest, use all 
three shades for the points in diamond stitch, ending 
witli the lightest shade at tlie tips. The clusters of 
bullion stitch which finish the tips of the diamond- 
stitch points should be in the darkest shade. 



27 








Fig. 54. Detail of Smocking, Fig. 53 

Mention has been made of tlie simulated buttons in 
spider-web stitch. The bars are worked directly into 
the material, and the spider-web then woven on the 
bars is illustrated on page 26, Fig. 51. Use the darkest 
shade for the bars and the lightest for weaving. 

This is a particularly pretty model for the small 
child, and any simple cutting pattern may be used 
which has set-in sleeves and an attached gathered or 
plaited skirt, allowing for the e.xtra fullness of material 
required for smocking, as described in the introduc- 
tory chapters to this book. If a wide hem is allowed, 
the skirt can be easily lengthened to accommodate the 
growing child. 

Neck and sleeve edges are finished with bands of the 
fagoting stitch, illustrated on page 10, outlined on botIi 
edges with a darker shade. The joinirg of waist and 



skirt and the under-arm seams are covered with the 
same fancy stitch. 

Figure 56. Child's Party Dress. — (See Fig. 55.) 
Tlic material selected for this little frock was fine- 
(luality English dimity, with a stripe of three cords, 
the plain space being equal in width to the corded lines. 
There are si.x corded lines to the inch, and these cords 
or corded lines were used in shirring for the smocking, 
taking each line for one stitch and omitting the plain 
spaces. To secure straight and even spaces for these 
shirring lines ihe sewing-machine was used — an ap- 
plication of the stitched method mentioned many times 
in the descriptions of work in this book. .'Ml that this 
or similar cases demand is straight lines to guide the 
shirring. .\ long loose stitch can be used on the 
nmchino. 



•:^'-*^a».>:^>^>j^cx>e 




>*r 



i-*::-.*.**.^ 



\XX* Vj(V> 







w 

¥ 

4 




^wZ^^OiSQi 






!pV V v^ V V ^ V 



FiG. 55. Detail of Stitches. Double Cable, Wave, 
\Nn Diamond as used on Fig. 56. See page 29 

Figure 57. — In this illustration we have a new 
feature; indeed, two new features, — the double dia- 
mond wave and buttonhole stitch. The piece is worked 
on madras and stitched lines and spaces were used for 
preparation. Si.xteen lines were stitched, using seven 
stitches to the inch. Work was drawn up, pulled into 
place, and smocking commenced on the first line in 
single outline; on the second line, single buttonhole 



28 



stitch ; on the third line, single cable stitch ; on the 
fourth line, diamond stitch, using two stitches down 
to the tiflh line and up to the fourth line, down to 
the tilth line and so on across the work. On the sixth 
line diamond stitch is worked up to the fifth line, 
down to the sixth line, up to the fifth line, forming 
a full diamond. Three more rows of diamond stitch 
are worked in the same manner, forming a band 
in diamond. On the ninth line is worked a row of 
single cable. The double diamond wave consists of 



manner, keeping the points directly in line with those 
of the small diamond wave and meeting it at every 
other point. This gives one-half of a double dia- 
mond pattern. The second half of the double dia- 
mond is worked the same as the first half, ex- 
cept that it is reversed. The buttonhole stitch on 
the second line is the same as used in embroidery. 

Figure 58. — A honeycomb diamond used in connec- 
tion with a band or otlicr stitchery is somewhat out of 




Fic. 56. Chilu's P.\kty Dress of Stkipeu Dimity Smockeu i.s Sh.mjes or Ko^t. See l"ig. 55 and page 28 



one row of diamond wave outlined top and bottom 
by a row of stitches twice the numlier used for the 
small diamond, joining the small diamond on every 
second point as shown. It is best to work the small 
diamond first, leaving spaces above and below for 
the large diamond, or upper and lower lines shown. 
Note the illustration carefully. Work from the thir- 
teenth line to the twelfth, using three stitches, down 
to the thirteenth, and so on across. For the outer row 
of wave commence on the twelfth line and work to the 
second line above (tenth) and down again in same 



the ordinary in appearance. It looks attractive, and is 
desirable where a small or fine honeycomb pattern can 
i)e used. Such a pattern furnishes the often-needed 
finish for a piece of work in honeycomb stitch. This 
illustration was prepared, using the sewing-machine 
for lines and spaces, and the stitch was worked from 
right to left. 

Now, honeycomb stitch can be worked in several 
ways. It is the only smocking stitch so adaptable. 
The various illustrations in this book fully illustrate 
this principle. (See Figs. 29 and 30 on page 14, Fig. 32 



29 



on page 15, where the work was prepared and worked, 
using the tucked method — tliesc examples being 
worked from left to right.) When using the dot or 
transfer method, the work can be done working from 




•iG. 57. A (iiKii) Smockin'g Pattern, Showing Two 

New Features, Double Diamond Wave and 

Buttonhole Stitch. See page 28 

either left or right, but the diamond is best secured 
with tw-o stitches over, worked from right to left, as 
in the case of the dot used liy embroiderers. Circum- 
stances govern the method used for working the 
honeycomb stitch. The material may be gathered, and 
the stitch taken on the folds, or the stitch worked on 
the dots without the preliminary gathering. 

In working from left to right, using the dot 1 r 
transfer metliod. the progress is slow, and the work 
is not well secured, although leaving a cleaner piece of 
work on the wrong side. However, the right side of 
smocking is the side that interests most workers. 

The band commencing this design has been described 
several times, and we refer to page 8, Fig. 17. Tt 
consists of one row in outline, one row in double cable 
and single diamond in combination ; then outline 
again. Fourteen rcnvs in all were stitched and shirred 
in the usual manner for this design. Using this 
method, the needle carrying the shirring-thread is put 
into the holes made by the machine-needle. In the 
succeeding rows the folds or plaits so secured are 
exactly followed, tlie lines marked by the sewing- 
machine being the width of the presser-foot apart. 

Begin the honeycomb band on the fourth row at the 
right end of the work. Secure the thread on the first 
plait on the wrong side, bringing the needle up to the 
right side through the second plait. Take the first and 
second plaits together with two stitches over, as when 



working an embroidered dot. Then from the wrong 
side come down to the second line; bring your needle 
through the third plait. Take tlie third and second 
plaits together twice as before. Then from the wrong 
side again pass up to the tirst line. Take the fourth 
and third plaits together twice and proceed across the 
line. The second row is worked from the third line 
to the second line, forming a diamond. Do not draw 
your thread too tight in passing from stitch to stitch, 
as it detracts from the elasticity of the work. 

Figure 59. Apron. — An apron smocked is not so 
new as pretty, and this one is of unusual excellence, 
as it is provided with three capacious pockets. This 
apron is obviously intended for a sewing-apron. 
The material required is one and one-half yards, one 
yard wide. Dimity was used in this case. The strings 
and added hems were cut crosswise on the goods. 
Usually this is not a, good plan to follow, but in this 
case it was done. The pockets are simply turned up 
and feather-stitched to make the divisions. Feather- 
stitching is used on all edges, to hold the hems, etc., 
in place. The sprays arc in outline and in bullion 
stitch, l-'ig. 23. The smocking was done on lines secured 
by taking up the checks every other one. Eight rows 
were used. The points were done freehand. The 
siuocking pattern is clearly shown in Fig. 58. The 
apron shows a small bib decorated in keeiiing with the 
balance of the apron. Straps or brelelles can be used 
in place of the bib, if desired, and similarly decorated. 

Tlie apron shown is extremely attractive when taffeta 
silk is the material selecteil, and, of course, silks used 
for the smocking stitches. Rose-colored stranded cot- 
tons were used in the case of the apron shown, and 
two threads at one time, -^ny smocking pattern pre- 




FlG. 58. HoNKVniMl! SmoCKINC. IN' OlMlllN'ATlON \M T II 

SiMPLF. Stitchks. See page -'8 

ferred can be used, and many forms of embroidery 
stitches also are properly used. 

Figure 60. — The first row is single outline; second 
row, single outline; third row, single outline; one-half 
diamond is worked between the first and second and 



30 



second and third lines. The curved wave, 
worked in outline stitch ( Fig. 19, page 9). 
occupies a space of live lines ; working four 
stitches up with the thread below the nee- 
dle, three stitches across the line, thread 
helow the needle : four stitches down, with 
the thread above the needle, and three 
stitches on the line with the thread above 
the needle ; then four stitches up to the 
fourth line and three stitches across the 
line as before. Xc.xt row is worked in the 
same manner from the line below, and dots 
are placed in the centre, working from the 
ripht hand. The sixth and seventh lines 
are single outline with one-half diamond 
worked in the space between the two lines. 
One row of full diamond is worked below 
this, as the preparation for the point. These 
diamoiuls are (livi<lcd into unequal num- 
bers ; for instance, they are divided into five 
diamon<ls, and the point is commenced four 
diamonds, as the space of one diamond is 
always left between the points after the 
first row is worked. ( See illustration.) .\ny 
number of diamonds can begin a point, 
that can be suitably spaced. 

In working the points on this apron, it is 
a good plan to work from each end, puttiui; 
any uneven spaces in the centre point, 
which may contain one or two diamonds 
more than the others. Count off your dia- 
monds and spaces in the first row, and be 
governed by what you have. There is U" 
arbitrary law about these things. The 
worker can use her judgment in the matter, 
making the points large or small. 

Frontispiece (page j). — This illustra- 
tion shows how charming the little smocked 




i:;^^::^;^;::?©^^ 




Fig. 60. DiTAii. hf Vir.. 50 



Fic. 59. .Apron with Po( kf.ts. See detail Fig. 60, and 
page 30 

frocks are for children. On this garment smocking 
is used only to secure the fullness at the top of the 
skirt and on the sleeves. The waist portion is em- 
broidered in the same color as the smocking, and 
Irish crochet lace is used for neck finish and bead- 
ing at the waist line. The e<lges of sleeves and the 
frills on the waist are finished with the reverse over- 
and-over stitch (Fig. 24, page 11), also in color. 

The smocking pattern is very similar to that 
shown in detail by Fig. 55, page 28. 

Laundering Smocking. — Use a good soap. Ivory 
preferred. W'a-h by luind quickly, rinse thoroughly, 
and do not starch the smocking. Let the garment 
hang in the air long enough to partly dry; roll it in 
a clean cloth and let it remain for about one hour; 
then iron as usual, only do not iron your smocking. 
Gently pull it into its original position. After all 
this is done the smocked portions of the garment 
can be placed right side up over a Turkish towel, 
f(ddcd several times and lightly touched with a warm 
iron. When the smocking is finished, it can be held 
over an inverted iron with the wrong side of the 
smocking to the iron, as in steaming velvet; this 
stiffens the plaits. It is never advisable to boil or 
scald a garment that is worked in colors. 

31 



Pattern for the Transfer Dot Method of Marking for Shirring 
Threads as described on Page 5 



► REPARE a working pattern by placing thin paper 
over pattern of dots below, marking dots with 



pencil, and transfer to material by means 



paper placed face down between working pattern and 
material, using a pencil or any blunt-pointed instrument. 
The working pattern may be made any length or depth 



f carbon 



desired by moving the paper along, using the last row 
of dots as a key to keep the subsequent rows even. 

The points at the bottom are of use chiefly in Honey- 
comb Smocking. (See page 17.) In making addi- 



tional points, repi 
dots in middk 



at from two vertical centre lines of 
oint as manv times as desired. 



itP -229 



32 




A Book for EVERY 
Kind of Fancy- Work 

Priscilla Books are genuine Fancy-work teachers. Each book 

has a wealth of descriptive text, also scores of sharp, clear 

pictures which show just how to make the stitches and motifs 

and how the finished pieces should look. It is easy to do 

Fancy-work with the aid of Priscilla Books. 

Price, 25 Cents Each, Postpaid 






The Priscilla Color- 
ed Cross Stitch Book 

No. l.Thirtv-five differ- 
ent Cross Stitih desiKils 
in actual colors of the 
work. Also complete 
alphabet. 

The Priscilla Colored 
Cross Stilch Book No. 2. 

Shows forty Cross Stitch 
designs in full color. 

The Priscilla Wool Knit- 
ting Book. Our latest instruction 
book on Knitting. Full of good things 
for those who knit. 



PRJSCILU 
Crochet Book; 




Priscilla French and Eyelet Embroidery 
Book. With the aid of this new book any 
one can learn this form of embroidery. De- 
si^s given for Table Covers, Baby Wear, etc. 
Illustrations show stitches and a detail of nearly 
every design. 

Priscilla Punched Work Book. The beautiful de- 
signs in this book include articles for personal 
wear, table pieces, bedspreads, curtains, bureau- 
covers, cushions, pillows, lamp-shades, etc. All the 
stitches are illustrated and full directions given. 

PH«cilla Hardanger Book. Shows the various 
foundation stitches and their many combinations. 
Also many attractive designs with details and 
descriptive text. 



Priscilla Irish Crochet Book No. 1. This book has all the stitches and 
fillings for Irish Crochet, together with a large assortment of floral motifs. 
Full directions for working are given. 

Priscilla Irish Crochet Book No. 2. Supplement to first book. Gives a 
large assortment of motifs and finished articles with full directions for 

working. 

Priscilla Filet Crochet Book No. 1. Gives a variety of patterns in floral, 
conventional, and the ouaint heraldic and mythological figures so charac- 
teristic of Filet Lace. Many illustrations of finished work show the beau- 
tiful effects possible, and a multitude of designs are carried out in block 
effect so that they can be easily copied. 

Priscilla Filet Crochet Book No. 2. Shows over 80 beautiful, new de- 
signs. All thedesignsin this book are illustrated from the real work and 
can be easily carried out with the aid of the pictures and instructions. 

Priscilla Crochet Bedspreads Book. Contains a large number of 
designs which are beautifully illustrated and have full directions. 
A striking novelty is a motto insertion in the New Priscilla 
Cameo Crochet. 

Priscilla Crochet Edsings and Insertions Book. 

This book contains over 100 designs for beautiful 
crochet edgings and insertions which can be put 
to a multitude of uses. Handsomely illustrated. 
Complete instructions. 

Priscilla Crocheted Centrepieces and Doilies. 

Contains nearly 100 beautiful designs for centre- 
pieces and doilies, with full directions for work- 
ing. All illustrations made direct from original 
pieces. Many beautiful imported designs in this 
collection. 

Priscilla Tattins Book No. 1, A lucid expo- 
sition of this fascinating work. Many new 
designs never before published. Complete 
instructions. 

Prucill* Tatting Book No. 2. Contains 

nearly 100 new designs, all beautifully 
illustrated with full di- 



I'lysciu-i^ 

T.nlniBvsjl 



• « « « W « kt « «l M M ^.- 

'!■ 
'■!•' 



' X > <• ■• M «• « H • < 




.•,.■" ' . !'_f }.-'.■!, 11^. f-,% 






PRISCILLA 

Crochet Book 



Priscilla Drawn Work Book. Designs froin Porto 
Rico, Fayal, Germany, Russia, and far-off China, besides many 
in the well-known Mexican work. Full sized details of each de- 
sign make even the most intricate patterns easy to copy. 

Priscilla Macram^ Book. Shows in detail how to do this fascinating 
form of lace work. Over 100 designs for Bags, Dress Garniture, etc 

Priscilla Neltins Book, One of our most handsome Books. Shows 
nearly 100 of the prettiest designs ever published. Full directions for 
plain and embroidered netting, 

Priscilla Bobbin Lace Book, The designs in this book take Up the work 
from the beginning, all the tools and materials being fully described. Beau- 
tiful designs are given for Torchon, Cluny, Russian and Bruges laces, with 
full directions for working. 

Prucilla Battenberf and Point Lace Book. Here are practical, illustrated 
directions for making lace. Each step is taken up. Over one hundred 
stitches are shown, both simple and complicated. 

Priscilla Basketry Book. Gives simple and complete instructions for mak- 
ing all sorts of bags, baskets, hats and novelties in reeds and raffia. 

Priscilla Bead Work Book. The most complete and comprehensive book on Bead Work 
ever published. Contains a large assortment of illustrated designs for bags, purses, card 
cases, necklaces, pendants, chams, girdles, hair ornaments, etc, 

Priscilla Knitting Book. This is a most useful collection of patterns for knitting, consisting of a 
wide variety of attractive articles for men, women and children. Articles in wool predominate. 

Priscilla Wool Crochet Book. Illustrates articles in wool crochet for men, women and children. 

Comp'ete directions. 

Priscilla Cook Book, Contains 442 dainty, appetizing and practical recipes by the famous culinary 
expert, Fannie Merritt Farmer. 

Priscilla Helps for Housekeepers, Contains a collection of Everyday Housekeeping "Helps "garnered 
from the experience of nearly 500 practical Priscilla housewives. 

Rrk<-klra i-rtW r^Vtilrlron "^^^ Priscilla Juniors' Library is a new, and so far as we know the 
OUUIVS lOr V^llliureil oni» Fancy-work Instruction Books for children. Instructions are 
given in the simplest of language. Profusely illustrated. These books now ready. Priscilla Juniors' 
Crochet Book; Priscilla Juniors' Basketry Book: Priscilla Juniors' Cross Stitch Book; Priscilla 
Juniors' Colored Cross Stitch Book. Price, 15 Cents Each, Postpaid. 

Priscilla Publishing Company 

85 Broad Street, Boston, Meiss. 



rections for working. 
The newer ideas m 
tatting are given spe- 
cial attentionand many 
charming designs are 
carried out by unusual 
methods. 

Priscilla Cross Stitch 
Book. Has nearly two 
hundred working pat- 
terns. Many are suit- 
able for bead work. 
There are also six 
alphabets and direc- 
tions for all kinds 
of canvas work. 




DO YOU EMBROIDER ? 

If you like Embroidery, Crocheting, Tatting, Knitting, Weav- 
ing, Basketry, Stenciling or any other kind of Fancy Work, 
subscribe for 

r/^r MODERN PRISCILLA 

TH£ NATIONAL FANCY V/ORK MAGAZINE 

The Modern Priscilla is a profusely illustrated 
monthly magazine, brimful of lovely designs and 
interesting new ideas for needleworkers. It gives 
you the newest and prettiest designs for Em- 
broidery (every variety); Crochet (all kinds); 
Tatting, Knitting, Basketry, Bead ^Vork, China 
Painting, It is an ever growing encyclopedia of 
feminine handicrafts. It teaches you to make 
dainty, useful, wearable articles for yourself, 
your children, your home and your friends. 



IN ADDITION to "Fancy Work" each 
issueof TheModern Priscilla contains 
an "Everyday Housekeeping" section 
designed to meet the needs of the 
man^ rather than the needs of the few. 
No ' shooting over readers' heads" in 
this department — just plain, labor 
saving, time saving, money saving 
housekeeping helps for everyday use, 
and Iota of 'em. Good stories. The 
Modern Priscilla has also, and a 
dress fashion department that is 
up-to-date, but not extreme. 

More than half a million other 
women are already enjoying'The 
Modern Priscilla, many of v^'hom 
say they could not keep house 
without it. and we believe you 
would find it just as enjoyable as 
they do. 




Subscription Price 
$1.00 Per Year 

What two women say 

'*/ think The Modem 
PriaciUa the bestwoman'tt 
paper published. I read 
mine from one ruver ta the 
other mill do not under- 
Bt-and /iiiw any one can 
get alonu without it " 






"*bV^ 



^^6^ 










\ 



u 

V 









•^^ , . . , "^""^ ' 
':* A^ ^W'i7*:C' ^S>■ 
0^ b 









mi^^' /% •^}^^^* ^>- % ^" /% ^:^^^^ /\ -J^^, 
:^'';-- % y-'-^A:/^ y.v::^-V y.^^^^"^ / 






.%"% 



.V 



V 









4 o 



\ 



'■A \ .-^^ .'?*^?N'. "^j. ^<' .' 















^A0< 



o 












. IS J» < 



•^^^^ -'- ^^-i^ •V-^^ ^O^^^ „^^^. ^ "-V^N^ 

. -o/ '- •^-'■0^ >»bV^ -^^0^ 






.V **. "^ A° 



o h 









>. A 



1^ 






^*, ' 






.,^^'' 



V 



^** ' •■ \,^< . Xs^**' :■- \y y^f^r^ \</ :''^'-- \^< 

/: i?-^ /^ ^^-n*:, ^'^ 

■" \/ \/ '■■■ %/ 

• •«-^ *", 

v* - -J 



•A* 

o V> - ••- 

lO *»*> • < o 







; •■> 














\ 


•'>^?^'V"^' 


''-■ 






tJo 












%, 



'..,- '^^ 



^•. Vo^' a:^?K-. ".,/ /. V,.' -::^M'- ".,/ -y 

ST. AUGUSTINE Vl O^ ^0 T '^ ,^ ^0 f. 



